What To Do In Tainan, Taiwan
This city is easily one of my favorite places to go in Taiwan. I first went in 2019 on a day trip, and I remember eating throughout the day, walking through museums and a Confucian temple, and ending at a fort where the Dutch East India Company posted when they colonized Taiwan in the 17th century.
Tainan was Taiwan’s capital for 200 years and is the oldest city on the island, which you can still see with the many historical buildings and beautiful architecture throughout. Many cafes, restaurants, and bars are in renovated buildings and old homes, adding to a relaxing and nostalgic vibe I’ve come to associate with a lot of places throughout Taiwan.
Tainan is also arguably Taiwan’s food capital, with many famous Taiwanese dishes originating from here. Some of the meals we had were danzai noodles, beef soup for breakfast, and migao (steamed sticky rice). Tainan used to be where a lot of sugar cane was produced and the city was filled with prosperous merchants who could afford sweetening their meals. I found some of the food a tad on the sweet side for my taste palette, but the food options here are endless and amazing.
I saw more of the historical sites in 2019, so spent 2022 eating, wandering through the streets and small alleyways, and taking in the art. There is also a budding creative space in the city with some galleries showcasing works from emerging Taiwanese artists. Below are some of my favorite things to do, as well as places marked for next time because I am definitely going back.
Travel journal spread with “Everything, Everywhere All At Once” vibes, Colored Pencil and Ink, 2022
Places to Eat:
Du Hsiao Yueh Original Restaurant (度小月原始店) - This restaurant has been around since 1895. We got the danzai noodles and shrimp rolls. The portions are pretty small though, so order accordingly. Solid and well-made Taiwanese staples.
Six Thousand Beef Soup (六千牛肉湯) - We ordered the beef soup for breakfast. It’s an aggressive choice, but worth trying since Tainan is known for this. The broth is flavorful, but not too heavy, and pairs well with white rice. This place is only open fro 5AM - 11AM.
醇涎坊古早味鍋燒意麵 - We got bowls of their fried noodle soup with fish cakes and eggs at this bustling noodle eatery that spills into the streets. Bao’an Street has a lot of small eateries filled with people so plenty of food options if you’re in the area.
禧樂米糕 - This place was near us to try migao, which is a sweet, steamed glutinous rice that’s another popular dish in Tainan, but lots of options around to try this.
Uncle & Mom Tempura (叔炸甜不辣媽) - They serve different tempura, which are fried fish cakes shaped like thick French fries. We got the salt and pepper flavor, that had a slight kick to them as a late night snack. Fun side note - the shop’s name “甜不辣” means “sweet, not spicy”, and when pronounced, it sounds like how “tempura” sounds.
Places to Snack:
Jerry’s Lab (水倉試驗所咖啡侍茶 X 只有奶茶) - This is a small joint that’s easy to miss in Snail Alley, but one of the more unique and memorable coffee pour over experiences I had in Taiwan.
Gan Dan Coffee - Cozy and simple coffeeshop with a nostalgic vibe in a renovated old home.
連得堂煎餅 - We got their famed homemade, traditional crackers, which they limit to two orders per group. We got a few extra cookies as gifts too. Get there early since they usually sell out by early afternoon!
Chun純薏仁 - Cute dessert spot with pearl barley soups with green tea ice cream and red bean (and side of tangyuan with whisked matcha and matcha jelly).
蜷尾家甘味處散步甜食 - Popular ice cream stall where you order to go and enjoy your treat outside. The flavors depend on the day, but we enjoyed a 包種 tea ice cream that day (the other flavor was tiramisu).
Lily Fruit (莉莉水果店) - Got fresh fruit, shaved ice, and tomatoes with a yummy sauce here. Lovely spot, and I got a postcard designed by a local too, highlighting the pride in the fruit they serve.
Places to Drink:
Bar Home - Popular cocktail bar in a converted old home with Victorian interior decor.
We Drink Beer Company - Modern craft beer bar with local beers and fun labels on the famed historical street, Shennong Street. You enter through a massive glass door that looks like a window, but you just push along the sides and it’s a revolving glass panel that serves as the entrance.
Things to Do:
Hayashi Department Store - A five story shopping center with Taiwanese made clothing, crafts, homewares, and desserts. It was first built in 1932 during the Japanese colonial era. After damage from WWII air raids, the store was used as offices until it was refurbished and restored in 2013 with much of the original interiors, elevator, and details remaining intact.
Chuan Mei Theater (全美戲院) - One of Taiwan’s oldest second-run theaters with large hand-painted movie posters outside. You see a stack of plywood and paint buckets across the street where the art is usually made. Ang Lee also came to this theater a lot as a kid growing up in Taiwan.
Tainan Spring (河樂廣場 The Spring) - An open air park with a large, shallow urban pool throughout and local plants all around. The area used to be a large abandoned Chinatown Mall that was repurposed as a large public space to revitalize the area. The pools were planned to account for dry and rainy seasons and remnants of the old mall have been kept to preserve an urban feel to it.
Shennong Street (神農街) - This historic street was where merchants would enter Tainan during the Qing dynasty. It’s now a colorfully decorated preserved street with stores selling handicrafts, as well as cafes and bars. Most of the facades have been remodeled, but much of the original road remains, and is a fun walk during daytime or nighttime.
Inart Space 加力畫廊 - Modern gallery space in a retrofitted old building that highlights contemporary art, including emerging Taiwanese artists.
B.B.ART - Contemporary gallery space in an old building with a large open air courtyard. The first floor is an exhibition space, and the second has a cute cafe to relax in. The exhibition space is usually a mix of different artists.
Historic Sites to See:
Tainan Art Museum (Buildings 1 and 2)
台南孔子廟 Tainan Confucius Temple
Chihkan Tower
Anping Old Street
Anping Old Fort
For Next Time:
NijO Coffee 泥臼咖啡
PariPari
窟仔kula咖啡
zyuu tsubo 十平
祿記包子
Cui Xing Cafe
Moonrock
Tip: Taiwan businesses rely more on Google reviews and Facebook than American businesses, so for more popular places, especially dinner or drinks, it’s best to call or message them a few days beforehand to make a reservation. Many coffee spots also have waits and are generally first come, first serve.
